The Great Point Blank Job!!!

The easy bit!!! The top box is in fantastically good condition (albeit a bit dirty) there's hardly a mark on it! Turns out the machine ISN'T 208cm high as it states in the manual, of course this measurement must include this top box - its only 174cm, so still pretty large then! 
The only problem I have with this part is that it doesn't light up... But then, I don't find that out until much later...
Well this is the machine laying in the van. The manual states the measurements as 78cm X 90cm X 208cm, so the problem I have here is that the door frame is only 74cm wide... Now you can see why I told everyone this was an adventure! As you can see from the picture the artwork is pretty much intact, there's only a few minor rips in it. The worst part is the control panel which you can't see here, its in a VERY poor state but fortunately NAMCO still produce overlays for it. Its not an urgent job, so I'll look into it another time.
While I had it like this I hacksawed off the top padlock (bottom one had a key) and jemmied open the cab a little at the bottom to see what I was dealing with (more on that later). 
Took me half an hour or more to get the lock off the back door! Well, I only spent so long on it because I didn't want to damage the wood at all - plus I don't have an extension cord long enough to be able to use a drill on it. After much hard graft I finally manage to mangle it enough to be able to put a screwdriver into the lock and successfully turn it - this is my first view inside the cabinet.
First problem I can see here... I'm on my own doing this and that's a 28" monitor which is extremely heavy! Fortunately its on 'rungs' and I can slide it out so that I'm supporting the weight with my legs and the cab is taking the rest until I can reach the monitor cage/ bars on the other side. Then... I pulled it out fully expecting it to be more weight than I could handle, but it wasn't quite so bad!  I managed to carry it up the stairs and into the flat no problem, everything else in the cabinet was easy by comparison though! Other things I took out were: Wooden monitor surround, PCB (in cage), power/ transformer block, mirror (screen faces up and a mirror is used to 'project' the image towards the player), control panel and finally the bezel which is just a plain sheet of glass that covers the front. Another problem I did come across here which I had anticipated was security screws... They are the type that are a 4mm allen key but with a 'pin' in the middle, fortunately this pin breaks relatively easily when you knock it backwards and forwards using a small screwdriver and a hammer! Then I just used the 4mm allen key - problem solved!!!

Forgot to add, I found an original Point Blank manual inside! I'll scan it and put it online when I have time...

A huge great big relief!!! On jemmying apart the bottom of the cabinet it turns out that these cabinets don't hold together using any glue at all!!! Its held together by wooden dowels spaced out about 3-8" apart across the whole cabinet (including the wooden pieces which are inside the cab which are doweled on each end) then inside the cab there are wooden blocks which are screwed into the bottom/ sides/ top to hold it all together. Of course, I didn't know this when I bought the cab... It was just a stroke of luck!
Anyway... The cab is stripped and I start to take it upstairs with the help of a friend who has just turned up. I wasn't sure whether I'd need to take the top apart as I thought I might be able to 'turn' it around the doorway and into the room, but of course this was wishful thinking!!! Didn't take five minutes to just take one side off though.
Here's the bottom part of the cabinet with all of the wiring still attached. What I decided to do was remove the wiring from the sides completely and just leave it like this so I could work out where it went back relatively easily. This means that everything is still in the same sort of place it came from anyway so I don't have to think too hard about where it goes back! Fortunately, it isn't too complicated either seeing as the game is relatively new at only 1994, another plus is that no two connectors appear to be the same so there is no real danger of plugging something in the wrong hole!
You can also see the dowels sticking out here, I was going to remove them and screw the cabinet together from the outside but seeing as there was no glue involved I figured the cab didn't need any extra stability. The real idea behind the screws was that then it would easily come apart again, but it wasn't so bad in the end anyway (just time consuming!)
With the cabinet laid on its side, me and a friend started whacking it together again! Probably could of used a rubber mallet or something, but of course I don't have one! It went back together again pretty okay just using our fists to thump it! It seems to stand up pretty well without the wooden blocks, but if a jobs worth doing, its worth doing well... So my Mum says anyway.. I set about rebuilding the entire cab again quite successfully! I decided not to reattach the wiring to the sides of the cab again so it does come apart quickly should I move house or something - it doesn't matter to me if its just dangling inside the cab its not like I'm operating it or anything! The only wiring I did attach was the speaker/ marquee light wiring because it runs up the front of the cab and has its own screw held attaching things (!) The rest of the wiring was held together by cable ties and stuck to the cab using metal 'staples'. The only problem with feeling around inside the cab now is that I cut the staples the get the wiring out and left the staples there poking out... Guess I could always just take them out another time, getting the cab together is the main priority today.
And here it is!!! It didn't work at first because one of the pins that attach to the safety cut off 'plunger' had fallen off (which was a heart stopping moment after 6 hours work!!!) But after reattaching, it fired up straight away! In the end I was quite glad to have taken it completely apart because it was absolutely filthy and I could then give it a really good clean!
I found a broken earth connection to the top box/ marquee and so I reconnected it, the problem I have now is that the box doesn't light up but then I don't actually know whether it did beforehand...  It comes off easily enough though and just has mains connection going into it so I should be able to work it out pretty easily (later though, there's gaming to be done!) Don't know if it'll stay in that place either, it does seem a shame to hide the Star Wars in the corner, I'll probably swap them around so all the vector games are together.

Things to do still:

Get a pink gun! Or a lens for player 2 at least so the second gun is operable.
Get a new control panel overlay from NAMCO and some new holsters if they're reasonably priced.
Fix the lighting in the top box/ marquee - it'll look fantastic when its done!
Give the monitor a cap kit (it does tend to bend at the corners during gameplay).

I'm over the moon with it! Another cab to take off the wanted list!
BIG THANKS to all concerned for all their help, you've made me very happy!

UPDATE!

I've now got a pink gun AND fixed the florescent lighting! BIG thanks to Sticky (I swapped my Cosmo Gang PCB for a complete working pink gun and some blue spares). PLEASE don't mail me to tell me the guns are the wrong way round! I do know!!! I'm having problems with player twos aligning, its as much as an inch out on the sides of the screen but fine in the middle. I'm experimenting to find out where the problem lies...